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If you follow these simple instructions you can become an expert brewer at your first attempt. These instructions are designed to produce 25L of great home brew.
If you have any difficulty with your brewing call in, ring or e-mail as we will be only too happy to help. We have the experience and knowledge, plus the quality products to help you make " good beers better". Any kit beers can be made into low carbohydrate beers. There is an enzyme called diatose enzyme which converts some of the complex malt chains in the can of mix into simple, fermentable sugars. (Amylo 300 is used to increase the availability of sugars in beer fermentation. It allows for the production of high alcohol beers and can also produce low carbohydrate diabetic beer with increased alcohol strength. Amylo 300 is an amyloglucosidease preparation produced from Aspergillus niger.) Many people with diabetes, in consultation with their doctor, can use this enzyme when making their favourite batch of beer. The resultant beer is drier and slightly more alcoholic. Of course we can put less malt or dextrose to keep the beer at 5% Any can of beer mix 750g Dextrose/malt (opptional) kit yeast 5ml of diatose enzyme Make the beer as per THBS instructions, To produce diet beer use 5ml / 25 litres of wort. Add just before the yeast. Ferment in the normal way. F.G. 1000 (more if using malt) & 5% alcohol No sugar gives 3.5% alcohol The easiest way to explain how to make an extract beer is to use a recipe. The reason for this is each recipe's timing varies greatly depending on the style, hops used, when they are added, boil time etc. An example of this difference is recipe X may call for the use of a single hop simmered for 45 minutes only whereas recipe Y calls for three different hops each of which is added progressively through the boil. Even though the timings differ the basics still remain the same and they are:-
It is best to boil the hops with the dried malt or liquid extract because the extraction of the hops' bitterness and flavour is more integrated. However, if you don't have a pot big enough you can get away without doing this. EXAMPLE:- 1.75kg amber malt extract 650g dextrose 40g Pride Of Ringwood hops 1 tsp irish moss ½ tsp epsom salts 1 pkt yeast METHOD:-
DRAUGHT BEER DISPENSING SYSTEM The basic system comprises a 23-litre stainless steel keg, Pluto beer gun, gas regulator plus all lines and click-on fittings. By using this system it is possible to drink the beer 3 days after kegging. With multiple kegs it will do away completely with the chore of bottling. If, however, bottling is still required, then that facility can be added, making the bottling of sediment-free drinks possible. It also enables the making of sparkling wines and carbonated soft drinks. The system operates from standard D size CO2 cylinders (gas code 082) or larger. The average home-brewer can expect a cylinder to last 6-12 months. The gas cylinders are not supplied with the basic system but can be obtained from B.O.C. We are now able to stock the 6.8Kg CO2 cylinders. Cost is $349 supplied full !!!!! It will be up to you to get them pressure tested every 10 years. This is great news. No longer will we have to pay the $120 rental from B.O.C!!!!!!! These cylinders will pay for themselves in 3 years. My new mate, Martin, at Safety and Fire Equipment, phone 62729800, 110 Gormanston Rd, Derwent Park is happy to fill them for $55 including GST. He is also in charge of conducting the pressure test for a cost of about $60-70. www.safteyandfire.com.au
The retail price of the basic system is $460, itemised as follows. NEW Stainless steel keg 23 litre $180 Regulator $105.00 Pluto beer gun $135.00 Lines & fittings $40.00 The following items are also available: Bar tap designed to fit into refrigerator door at $135.00 Counter pressure bottle filler retails for $O/S fully set up with all lines. Filter with 0.5 micron back-washable element at $270
USE OF POST-MIX CYLINDERS FOR HOME BREW. To clean keg: Wash well with very hot water and detergent. If necessary, use Keg Cleaner or similar chlorine based cleaner/steriliser and rinse with water. Don't use sodium metabisulphite. Seal lid, connect gas and flush lines and beer tap with last of water. Turn gas off at cylinder and lift gas relief valve on keg. To fill keg: Carefully siphon cleared beer into keg. (Please feel free to ask what else can be put in the kegs - we've had great results with ginger beer and rum or even soft drinks for the kids). Avoid excessive splashing and frothing. Fill to within 5-7 cm of the opening, fit lid, connect gas and pressurise to 200 kPa (30 psi.). Lift pressure relief valve briefly to purge air from keg. Refrigerate for 3 to 5 days leaving the gas connected at 200 kPa (30 psi.). The colder the beer at this stage, the quicker it will gas up. Beer, or other product is now ready to be dispensed. An alternate and quicker method of conditioning beer is to pressurise to 100 kPa (15 psi), purge air from tank then increase pressure to 300 kPa (45 psi). Turn gas off and shake till gauge reads 100 kPa (15 psi). Turn gas back on to restore pressure to 300 kPa (45 psi). Keep repeating this step until the gauge needle only falls very slowly. Re-pressurise to 300 kPa (45 psi), remove from gas and chill for 24 hours. To dispense from keg: Turn gas off at bottle, turn regulator anti-clockwise to off and lift pressure relief valve to reduce pressure in keg. Turn gas back on and adjust regulator until pressure reaches 50-70 kPa (8-10 psi.). Connect beer line and pour. ENJOY! Important points to remember: Immediately keg is empty, repeat first paragraph to clean keg and lines. You can age the beer, but only after it is fully gassed. Only put fully cleared beer into your keg. Use of finings before kegging is recommended. Check all connections regularly for leaks by squirting a weak solution of detergent over posts and lid or immersing in water. Trouble
shooting: Beer is flat or no head. Repeat the carbonation process. Check keg o'rings by squirting a weak detergent solution on all the points. Beer won't pour. Check the CO2 is turned on. Bottle may be empty. Beer could be frozen. Keg empties too fast. Slow down drinking habits. Decrease social circle. Make more beer.... To use a hydrometer correctly, place it in the beer or wine to be tested. Either lift or spin the hydrometer to dislodge any gas bubbles that may have gathered on it then allow it to settle and float freely. Take a reading directly from the scale at the surface of the liquid. The sole use of the hydrometer is to show the specific gravity (S.G.) or "thickness" of any liquid. For the wine or beer maker it shows the concentration of sugar in solution. However, it can also indicate the concentration of alcohol in a beer. By taking a reading at the start of fermentation and another at the end and dividing the difference by 7.36 it will show the alcohol produced. For example, a start reading of 1050 and an end reading of 1005 will give a difference of 45. Dividing this by 7.36 will give an alcohol content of 6.1% by volume. With the addition of 1 teaspoon of sugar to your beer bottles your alcohol content will increase by 0.3% for a total of 6.4%. It is easiest to store the hydrometer in a chlorine solution in the container it came in. Not many of us have the time to sterilise it for 2 hours and use it for 2 seconds!! By storing it this way all you need to do is rinse it under the tap, place it in the brew, take the reading and put it back in the container. Takes less than 30 seconds... Simple!!!!! You can use the bulk priming method to
gas up your beer true to the style that you are making, eg: A British Ale or Oz
Beers. This form of bulk priming is easier to control the amount of sugar added
to the beer to produce the required carbonation. The required amount of priming
sugar is added to the fermenter, after the beer has been racked to remove the
unwanted sediment, in grams per litre. The following is a basic list of some
styles of beer and the amount of sugar to add so that you achieve the required
amount of gas in your beer. English Ales:- 2.5-3g/L or 62.5-75g/25L Stout:- 4.2-4.7g/L or105-117.5g/25L Australian Beers:- 7.2-8g/L or 180-200g/25L European Lager:- 5.5-6g/L or137.5-150g/25L Cider:- 10-15g/L or 250-375g/25L NOTE ... Champagne:- 20-24g/L or 500-600g/25L One thing to do during this priming process is to make sure you keep stirring the beer to make sure you keep the sugar mixed thoroughly. Method - Dissolve the required sugar in 100ml boiling water and put in a sterilised fermenter. Run the finished, clear beer into the barrel and proceed with bottling. As it is a measured dose, it will carbonate the beer evenly so you can use any size bottle you like. When the hydrometer is not in use keep the tube full of a decent chlorine solution. When you want to use it you just rinse off the chlorine, use it, then put it back in the chlorine solution and then it is sterilised and ready to use again next time. Whirlfloc T - Kettle fining tablet made from red seaweed extracts - carageenan. Aids in improving separation of wort suspended solids and allows a greater volume of wort recovery by forming a compact, cohesive trub. Also aids in beer clarity and stability by improving the removal of proteins and gums. Add Whirlfloc tablets directly to the kettle, 10 mins before the end of the boil at the rate of 2 tablets/hL (0.5 tablets per 25L) Beer finings - Biofine P19- isinglass fining product. Aids in speeding up clarification by accelerating sedimentation of yeast and other insoluble material into a compact layer at the bottom of the fermenter. It does this by electrostatically. Biofine P19 improves beer stabilisation and prolongs shelf life. It increases filtration rate of final beer and assists in overall process optimisation. Clear cool - For chillproofing beer, Profix 100L eliminates chill haze and improves shelf life. Profix 100L is a purified papain extract from the fruit of Carica papaya Time
- particles will settle out in beer according to Stoke's Law. Stoke's Law predicts the settling velocity of a sphere in a fluid. WARNING - you can only leave the beer in the barrel for long periods providied the fermenter is full i.e. no air space. Either top up your barrel or but something sterlised in (Archimedes Principle) to displace the air. SODIUM METABISULPHITE is the preferred agent for sterilising equipment as it is cheaper. After cleaning your equipment you can sterilise by using one teaspoonful per 5 litres and soaking for 2 hours. The solution does not keep. Drain well, but do not rinse. TRI-SODIUM PHOSPHATE (BOTTLE CLEANER) is a caustic cleaner. Mix 1/4 of a cup in 4 litres of hot water and wash bottles or barrels. Rinse well. Stubborn stains may require soaking for 24 hours. We recommend wearing of rubber gloves while using this product. SODIUM DICHLORISOCYANURATE + TRI-SODIUM PHOSPHATE (KEG CLEANER) is a cleaner and steriliser in one. Use 1-2 teaspoons in 5 litres of cold water to clean, sterilise and deodorise barrels. Leave for 10-20 mins then rinse well. SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE is a commercial brewery descaler/steriliser for the removal of all yeast films, moulds etc. FOR USE, dilute 50ml to 500ml with water. Add a little of this solution to the bottles or vessels and shake around for a few seconds or until any film is removed. Rinse with hot or cold water. The solution may be used repeatedly until grossly contaminated or the chlorine smell has diminished. BREWCLEAN is a non toxic colloidal cleaner. The micelles attack dirt and push it into the water, making it easy to wash away. Heavy cleaning jobs no dilution required. Moderate cleaning jobs 1 part brewclean to 3 parts water. Light cleaning jobs 1 part brewclean to 6 parts water. Wet the surfaces with brewclean, agitate the product on the surface by wiping, rubbing and shaking as required. Allow to sit then rinse clean. How to be an unsuccessful brewer! (Adapted from an article by Andrew Chislett...)
Contact InformationPhone & Fax (0362) 346230 Postal address 179 ELIZABETH STREET, HOBART TAS 7000
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