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To use a hydrometer correctly, place it in the beer or wine to be tested. Either Lift or spin the hydrometer to dislodge any gas bubbles that may have gathered on it, then allow it to settle and float freely. Take a reading directly off the scale at the surface of the liquid. The sole use of the hydrometer is to show the specific gravity (SG) or "thickness" of any liquid. For the wine or beer maker it therefore show the concentration of sugar in solution, however it can also indicate the concentration of alcohol in a wine. By taking a reading at the start of fermentation and another reading at the end of fermentation and dividing the difference by 7.36 will show the alcohol produced, eg: Start reading of 1085 and an end reading of 1005 will give a difference of 80 and dividing this by 7.36 will give an alcohol content of 10.9% by volume. STAGE 1 - PRIMARY FERMENTATION
STAGE 2 - SECONDARY FERMENTATION After 5 - 7 days the specific gravity will be 1.010 or less. You must rack the wine into a carboy at this time. (Note: the lower your fermenting temp, the longer it will take to reach this stage.)
STAGE 3 - STABILISING After 10 days, check your specific gravity. It should be 0.996 or less. Verify a stable gravity by checking again in the next day. If the gravity has changed leave the wine until you get a stable reading on two consecutive days. If you do not verify this reading, your wine may not clear properly.
IF YOUR KIT CONTAINS A SMALLER FOIL BAG (F-PACK)
STAGE 4 - CLARIFICATION AND BOTTLING
When the hydrometer is not in use, keep the tube full of a decent chlorine solution. When you want to use it you just rinse off the chlorine, use it, then rinse and put it back in the chlorine solution and then it is sterilised and ready to use again next time. Corks Straight wine corks in a wine bottle provide protection from the air for your wine, the whole length of the cork. (Corks can not be put in beer bottles because of the tapered neck of a beer bottle making them impossible to get out). Corks come in 38mm and 44mm lengths and can be synthetic or cork composition. We supply a plastic cork (Normacorc 38 x 22mm) and a composite cork with twin disk of cork at either end (Twin Top 39 x 24mm). A premium cork can be supplied at 44 x 24mm. Synthetic corks are best for short term storage of no more than 1-2 years and the Twin tops are for no more than 2-3 years. Premium corks are good for 8-10 years. This should give you a guide to the type of cork you need. Bottling Sterilise the bottles in Sodium Metabisulphite. Fill the bottles to 60-65mm from the top rim of the bottle. Try to avoid splashing the wine when filling as it can cause oxidation and dissipate some of the SO2 preservative. We can supply a bottle filler to fill from the bottom of the bottle, a syphon outfit or we hire out a vacuum bottle filler to assist you with this process. Corkers We can supply a hand corker which is great for small numbers of bottles (6-12 bottles). It has a tapered chamber for the cork and you hit the flogger with a mallet or your hand to push the cork into the bottle. These are only recommended for the 38mm corks. There is also a double handled corker which is great for larger quantities of bottles. It will handle the synthetic and composite corks. A standing bench model is available to purchase or hire. These are great for large bottling and will handle any corks. When using the corkers, ensure the cork is compressed slowly. The insertion in the bottle should be done quickly. The cork should not protrude from the bottle but should be flush with the rim. The bottles should be stored upright for at least 24 hours prior to placing into your racks. This will ensure that the cork adjusts itself to its natural position inside the bottle and the pressure built up inside the bottle does not push out the wine. Ideal storage conditions are 15-20ºC with 50-70% humidity. Racking is the term given to the practice of moving a liquid from one container to another via a tube or pipe. The reason for racking a wine is to separate the wine from the yeast sediment. Only rack when your wine is finished (990 on the hydrometer), otherwise you are taking a perfectly healthy yeast colony away from a solution that is not finished. The remaining yeast will struggle to ferment the residual sugar in the high alcohol, high SO2, high CO2, low nutrient and low O2 environment. To rack the wine you must have two fermenters of similar capacity and at least two metres of none toxic plastic syphon tubing. Ensure that your primary fermenter is up on a bench or at least at a height that the other sterilised fermenter will fit easily underneath. Sterilise the syphon tubing. If using plastic fermenters If using glass fermenters BENTONITE :- Bentonite is diatomaceous clay that when mixed with water turns into a thixotropic paste. The important factor of bentonite is that it has the ability to absorb proteins in wine, but can also absorb part of the flavour of the wine so it's use must be kept to a minimum. GELATINE :- The addition of gelatine is made to aid clarification and reduce the level of phenolic compounds, like tannin, in astringent and bitter red wine and less frequently whites. It serves as a finning agent and can b e added in conjunction with other finings such as bentonite. isinglass or kieselsol. CLEARZYME :- This is an enzyme that destroys pectin, starch and cellulose compounds in wine. These compounds cause hazes in the wine that is aesthetically unpleasant. PECTIC ENZYME :- This combination of predominantly pectinase with secondary levels of hemi-cellulase and cellulase destroys the pectin chains allowing easier access of anthocyanins and tannins. Pectin is good for setting jams but not for wines and if left intact cause hazes in wine. The enzyme is best added at the beginning of the process. WINE FININGS :- Isinglass (Biofine P19) is a natural finning agent that electrostatically attracts the solid particles in the wine and drags them to the bottom of the fermenter and settles them in a slightly gelatinous state. Isinglass has the advantage of being able to be used in delicate wines where colour stripping can be a problem, in place of other harsher finning agents. It assists in the removal of unwanted haze forming proteins and selected polyphenols. Biofine P19 is a purified, standardised, readily soluble isinglass finings which can be supplied as a powder or liquid product. FILTER CARBON :- A much finer material that reacts with aldehydes and esters, and de-colourises any caramel/sugar fractions. Reacts by removing colour and odour. The slower the filter flow the cleaner the wine will end up. KIESELSOL :- Silica or Silicon dioxide preparations can be used to aid in flocculation and settling of gelatin fining additions. Fining agent for beer or wine. Can be used in conjunction with chitosan, a polysaccharide found in the shells of crustaceans and is derived from chitin, a substance found in shellfish. SODIUM METABISULPHITE is the preferred agent for sterilising equipment as it is cheaper. After cleaning your equipment you can sterilise by using one teaspoonful per 5 litres and soaking for 2 hours. The solution does not keep. Drain well, but do not rinse. TRI-SODIUM PHOSPHATE (BOTTLE CLEANER) is a caustic cleaner. Mix 1/4 of a cup in 4 litres of hot water and wash bottles or barrels. Rinse well. Stubborn stains may require soaking for 24 hours. We recommend wearing of rubber gloves while using this product. SODIUM DICHLORISOCYANURATE + TRI-SODIUM PHOSPHATE (KEG CLEANER) is a cleaner and steriliser in one. Use 1-2 teaspoons in 5 litres of cold water to clean, sterilise and deodorise barrels. Leave for 10-20 mins then rinse well. SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE is a commercial brewery descaler/steriliser for the removal of all yeast films, moulds etc. FOR USE, dilute 50ml to 500ml with water. Add a little of this solution to the bottles or vessels and shake around for a few seconds or until any film is removed. Rinse with hot or cold water. The solution may be used repeatedly until grossly contaminated or the chlorine smell has diminished. BREWCLEAN is a non toxic colloidal cleaner. The micelles attack dirt and push it into the water, making it easy to wash away. Heavy cleaning jobs no dilution required. Moderate cleaning jobs 1 part brewclean to 3 parts water. Light cleaning jobs 1 part brewclean to 6 parts water. Wet the surfaces with brewclean, agitate the product on the surface by wiping, rubbing and shaking as required. Allow to sit then rinse clean. (adapted from "First steps in winemaking" by C J J Berry) Acetification:
... or formation of vinegar. Caused by poor storage and presence of
air. Remedy: Always keep fermenters full. If detected early it
can be halted by adding 1 campden tablet per 5 litres. Later development
reduces the wine to vinegar and can only be tossed down the sink or used for
cooking. Over-sweetness:
Caused by too much sugar for particular yeast or low nutrient or cold
temperatures. Remedy: Blend with a dry wine. Finish the
ferment by adding a stuck yeast and more yeast nutrient. Dull:
Flat or insipid wine, caused by lack of tannin. Remedy: Add grape
tannin or soak an apple peel or oak leaves in wine or a tablespoon of strong tea
per 5 litres. Too harsh:
Add a teaspoon of glycerine per 5 litres or use gelatine finings (1 teaspoon in
a little warm water per 5 litres) allow a couple of days with stirring. Too much acidity:
Sourness caused by under-ripe fruit. Remedy: Mask with a teaspoon
glycerine, or sugar (5g/L) if only slight. If extreme, reduce with
potassium carbonate or calcium carbonate. Too little acidity:
Flabby wine that falls off the tongue. Remedy: Add citric or
tartaric acid to taste. Usually 7g per 5 litres raises acidity by 1 ppt. Not enough body:
Remedy: Add 250g raisins per 5 litres or add glycerine or juice of 2
bananas or make a note to use more fruit next time. Too spiritous:
Caused by too much sugar in original gravity. When using more fruit per 5
litres you can drop the amount of added sugar for a wine. Remedy:
Add water to initial must to get the gravity lower.. Low alcohol content:
Usually allied to over-sweetness. If it is the result of a incomplete
ferment, pitch a stuck yeast with some more yeast nutrient. Make a note to
increase fruit/sugar next time. Poor bouquet:
Usually caused by high ferment temperatures resulting in a rapid ferment or poor
ingredients or too much nutrient. Remedy: Keep up the acid level by
using citric, malic or tartaric acid. Use rose petals, elderflowers or
raspberries in the recipe next time. Slightly off smells:
Caused by bacteria, poor fruit, bad cask cleaning or proximity of wine to strong
smells. Remedy: Use a tablespoon of treatment carbon per 5 litres,
stir regularly in the first 24 hours. Allow to settle. Leave for a
further day , then rack and filter to remove the particles of carbon. Too much colour:
Caused by bacteria, tainted plastic buckets or poor fruit. Remedy:
Use a tablespoon of filter carbon per 5 litres, stir regularly in the first 24
hours. Allow to settle. Leave for a further day , then rack and
filter to remove the particles of carbon. Poor colour extraction:
Caused by low ferment temperature or under-ripe fruit. Remedy: Wine
can be blended with 250ml elderberry wine or the tip of a teaspoon of salt per 5
litres will help fix the colour of a red wine. Pinking of white wine:
Wine looks oxidised but the pinking obscures the greenness and brightness of the
wine with no alteration to taste or smell. Remedy: Use 2 tablespoons
of dried milk (casein) per 5 litres, rack two days later. Oxidation:
Wine changes colour, brown at the edges or browning of wine, the taste and smell
changes to something like banana skins. Remedy: Blend with strongly
fermenting wine or use 2 campden tablets per 5 litres, allow to settle and rack. Hazes:
Pectin - test wine with equal quantities of methylated spirits, if a sediment
forms treat wine with more pectic enzyme. Starch - test with iodine, if
positive treat wine with amylozyme. Protein - bottled wine develops this
haze over time, treat wine with bentonite or chitin, filter if necessary.
Coloured hazes caused by metallic contamination by copper, zinc or iron.
Treat with a little citric acid. Use only inert metals or glass in future. Mousey wine:
The horrible odour of mice is instantly detected if a drop of wine is dropped on
the palm of the hand and smelt. Caused by acetimide produced by spoilage
bacteria. Remedy: You can try reflux carbon or the sink. Make
sure to bleach all your equipment. Flowers of wine:
Powdery, whitish flecks appear on the surface of the wine and if left
unchallenged will rapidly increase and will turn the wine first to carbon
dioxide and vinegar then to water. Caused by an aerobic bacterium and too
much air in the vessel. Remedy: Early detection - filter through
coffee filter paper add 1 campden tablet per 5 litres. Late detection -
wine is ruined, no remedy. Ropiness:
The wine takes on a repellent, oily appearance, and pours very slowly like
honey, the taste is not affected. Caused by lactic acid bacterium.
Remedy: Whip the wine into a froth in a bucket, add 2 crushed campden
tablets per 5 litres and filter. Too dry:
Use potassium sorbate and one crushed campden tablet per 5 litres, sweeten to
taste. Usually 5 - 10g per litre is enough to lift a dry wine to medium
sweet. Medicinal flavour:
Like bandaids, caused by insufficient acid in must. Add tartaric or citric
acid, 1 teaspoon per 5 litres. Mustiness:
Caused by prolonged lees contact or dirty casks. No great remedies.
Sharpen up your skills next time. Failure to clear: See also hazes. Usually caused by incomplete ferment and early racking, subsequently leaving remaining yeast in high alcohol solution with little oxygen, low nutrient and high carbon dioxide. The yeast remains in solution trying to complete the ferment but struggles. Always make sure your first racking is NOT until all the sugar has gone - hydrometer reading of 990. Remedy: Restart the ferment and ferment to dryness.
Contact InformationPhone & Fax (0362) 346230 Postal address 179 ELIZABETH STREET, HOBART TAS 7000
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